St Patrick’s Day, 17 March, is the day when every Irish person celebrates… and every non-Irish person too, many of them attempting to claim tenuous Irish heritage. As renowned Irish chef Richard Corrigan tells us, don’t bother trying to find the ancestry. You’re more than welcome to the party.
Here the chef and patron of Corrigan’s Bar and Restaurant, Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill, and Daffodil Mulligan reveals how he celebrates St Patrick’s Day and shares some of his top recipes for an Irish feast.
Why has St Patrick’s Day become such a global celebration?
I think there is a spirit of generosity on the bones of Irish culture that doesn’t come on the bones of, say, that American Irishness. It comes on the bones of wanting the rightful things done properly, a sense of justice, a sense of belonging, a sense of nature; it probably defines us all, at the end of the day, that we’re not too far from the lands. And generosity for our fellow citizens. We’re a modern – well, not very old – country, a republic that was hard won and is only now being defined, three generations later, by the new Irish. Even though their wants are the same as the people who came from the land – the poetry, the music – so I think there’s a feeling of Irishness in our soul, an Irishness we want to share with everyone around us, because we know it’s a joyous thing.
So what, for you, defines Irish hospitality?
If you walk into a group of Irish people, they’ll share the wine, they’ll pour the porter, you will not be a stranger. That’s hard to see in a lot of cultures. I’ve lived in France, I’ve lived in the Netherlands, I’ve lived in London. This is not a criticism, but I define my time in England as where I’ve invited more people to drink my wine in my house than anyone else has brought me to their home to share their wine! But Irishness? It’s a sense of sharing, celebrating that sense of hospitality and fun. It’s not mean spirited, it’s not the sort of ugliness you’d normally get look in at a group of people, that sense of “f*** me I won’t want to be near that lot!”. The Irish in a crowd get happier, where so many other countries get angrier. It’s a sense of good manners, a decent upbringing – and that you don’t become a bollix when you’ve got a few drinks inside you.
What does your St Patrick’s Day look like?
I start with a whiskey; I love a tipple of Redbreast. Then a few nice pints of porter, Gibney’s Stout, which we have at Daffodil Mulligan’s, Bentley’s and Corrigan’s. I host an annual breakfast for friends. When it started, it was purely an Irish affair, now it’s more of a British Irish affair, and that’s what makes it more fun. It brings a bigger smile to my face that St Patrick’s is a shared day, it’s not just our day, it’s everyone’s day. It’s a sense of celebrating life, particularly after the last two horrible years, that’s for sure. There are no speeches, it’s just celebrating bringing people together – and I think that’s what makes St Patrick’s Day so fantastic.
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